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Make note of the vertical extrusions if you are upgrading or doing a new build.
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Build your frame on a flat surface to help square your frame. Granite countertops work well. Other tools such as a machinist square will work well too.
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Loctite is not required on the joints but can be added for extra peace of mind.
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Include the extra spacers if you are upgrading from an early V1 build.
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Check that your completed frame is square.
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Frame should not rock or wobble on a flat surface.
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Measure diagonals and remove any variance as much as possible.
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It's easiest to run a flat down the length of the entire 5mm shaft.
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The flat only needs to be deep enough for the grub screw to catch and not slip.
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When your pulleys are in place, be sure to loctite your grub screws.
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Add the drive stacks to the printed pieces along with another 20t pulley to lock the stack into place.
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Be sure to wire the micro switch as NC (Normally Closed). On most switches this means connecting wires to the outer two terminals on the switch, but you can check with a multimeter by making sure there is continuity at those pins when the switch is not pressed.
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Add a vertical line to the 20t pulleys in each stack so you can troubleshoot slipping grub screws easily.
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The assembly with the micro switch attaches to the right side of the frame.
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Be sure to run wiring through the channel and be careful to not damage it while tightening.
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Ensure the two halves mate cleanly or you can have twist along the X axis.
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Clean up parts with a hobby knife or small file if necessary.
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Insert wisdom here.
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Be careful not to over-tighten screws into plastic.
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LM8LUU bearing should fit snugly.
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You can use a c-clamp or similar tool to apply a slow and steady force to slide the bearing in if necessary.
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Insert wisdom here.
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Double check that your spacers and pulleys are located and oriented correctly.
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Be careful not to crack the carriage pieces when inserting the bearings.
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The M3 nuts for securing the toolhead can fall out. They can be added later if necessary. Or secure them in place with a short spare M3 bolt temporarily.
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If the probe tabs did not print cleanly, you may need to substitute M2 hardware, clean up the part with a hobby knife, or reprint the pieces.
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Insert wisdom here.
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Insert wisdom here.
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Be sure to wire switch in the NC position.
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Be sure to lube the bearings before adding the 8mm rods.
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Be sure to add lube to the bearings before assembly.
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Ensure smooth movement on both axis before tightening down to the frame.
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Wait until you run your belts before tightening the tensioners.
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Do not overtighten the M5 bolts. The F695 bearings should spin freely.
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Insert wisdom here.
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Study the belt path.
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Best practice is to run one belt before cutting. Use this belt to measure the other belt to the exact same length (by tooth count). Leave at least 1 inch (2-3cm) spare on one side so you can tighten by hand easily.
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Start at the carriage. Set the belt flush to the edge and tighten the belt retainer.
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Run the belts to the X/Y joints. The toothed side should run against the 20t pulleys. The smooth side should run against the flanged bearings.
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Run one belt to the front idler/tensioner and back to the X/Y joint.
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Continue running both belts to the rear.
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One belt will engage the drive pulley.
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Run both belts across the rear of the frame.
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Run the other belt through the drive gear on the other corner.
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Use paper clips or zip ties to help force the belt along the correct path as necessary.
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Run the belts down the other side through the X/Y joint and front idler.
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Finish the run at the carriage.
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Double check that your belts both follow the correct path.
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Ensure tensioners on both sides are completely loose.
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If you cut both belts to the exact same length, pull both of them tight and ensure the same length extend beyond the X carriage.
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Tuck spare belt back into the carriage.
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If you opt out of using dampeners, you may need to adjust or rotate the 20t pulley.
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Do not over-tension the 110mm belt loop.
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Apply loctite to the grub screws.
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Double-check your assembly.
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Insert wisdom here.
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Distance shown is from the front of the printer.
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Use calipers to measure placement.
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Insert wisdom here.
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Use calipers to measure placement.
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