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  1. Make note of the vertical extrusions if you are upgrading or doing a new build.
    • Make note of the vertical extrusions if you are upgrading or doing a new build.

  2. Build your frame on a flat surface to help square your frame. Granite countertops work well. Other tools such as a machinist square will work well too.
    • Build your frame on a flat surface to help square your frame. Granite countertops work well. Other tools such as a machinist square will work well too.

    • Loctite is not required on the joints but can be added for extra peace of mind.

  3. Include the extra spacers if you are upgrading from an early V1 build.
    • Include the extra spacers if you are upgrading from an early V1 build.

  4. Check that your completed frame is square.
    • Check that your completed frame is square.

    • Frame should not rock or wobble on a flat surface.

    • Measure diagonals and remove any variance as much as possible.

  5. It's easiest to run a flat down the length of the entire 5mm shaft.
    • It's easiest to run a flat down the length of the entire 5mm shaft.

    • The flat only needs to be deep enough for the grub screw to catch and not slip.

    • When your pulleys are in place, be sure to loctite your grub screws.

  6. Add the drive stacks to the printed pieces along with another 20t pulley to lock the stack into place. Add the drive stacks to the printed pieces along with another 20t pulley to lock the stack into place.
    • Add the drive stacks to the printed pieces along with another 20t pulley to lock the stack into place.

  7. Be sure to wire the micro switch as NC (Normally Closed). On most switches this means connecting wires to the outer two terminals on the switch, but you can check with a multimeter by making sure there is continuity at those pins when the switch is not pressed.
    • Be sure to wire the micro switch as NC (Normally Closed). On most switches this means connecting wires to the outer two terminals on the switch, but you can check with a multimeter by making sure there is continuity at those pins when the switch is not pressed.

    • Add a vertical line to the 20t pulleys in each stack so you can troubleshoot slipping grub screws easily.

  8. The assembly with the micro switch attaches to the right side of the frame. Be sure to run wiring through the channel and be careful to not damage it while tightening.
    • The assembly with the micro switch attaches to the right side of the frame.

    • Be sure to run wiring through the channel and be careful to not damage it while tightening.

  9. Ensure the two halves mate cleanly or you can have twist along the X axis.
    • Ensure the two halves mate cleanly or you can have twist along the X axis.

    • Clean up parts with a hobby knife or small file if necessary.

  10. Be careful not to over-tighten screws into plastic.
    • Be careful not to over-tighten screws into plastic.

  11. LM8LUU bearing should fit snugly.
    • LM8LUU bearing should fit snugly.

    • You can use a c-clamp or similar tool to apply a slow and steady force to slide the bearing in if necessary.

  12. Insert wisdom here.
    • Insert wisdom here.

  13. Double check that your spacers and pulleys are located and oriented correctly.
    • Double check that your spacers and pulleys are located and oriented correctly.

  14. Be careful not to crack the carriage pieces when inserting the bearings. Be careful not to crack the carriage pieces when inserting the bearings.
    • Be careful not to crack the carriage pieces when inserting the bearings.

  15. The M3 nuts for securing the toolhead can fall out. They can be added later if necessary. Or secure them in place with a short spare M3 bolt temporarily.
    • The M3 nuts for securing the toolhead can fall out. They can be added later if necessary. Or secure them in place with a short spare M3 bolt temporarily.

  16. If the probe tabs did not print cleanly, you may need to substitute M2 hardware, clean up the part with a hobby knife, or reprint the pieces.
    • If the probe tabs did not print cleanly, you may need to substitute M2 hardware, clean up the part with a hobby knife, or reprint the pieces.

  17. Insert wisdom here.
    • Insert wisdom here.

  18. Be sure to wire switch in the NC position. Be sure to wire switch in the NC position.
    • Be sure to wire switch in the NC position.

  19. Be sure to lube the bearings before adding the 8mm rods. Be sure to lube the bearings before adding the 8mm rods. Be sure to lube the bearings before adding the 8mm rods.
    • Be sure to lube the bearings before adding the 8mm rods.

  20. Be sure to add lube to the bearings before assembly. Be sure to add lube to the bearings before assembly.
    • Be sure to add lube to the bearings before assembly.

  21. Ensure smooth movement on both axis before tightening down to the frame. Ensure smooth movement on both axis before tightening down to the frame. Ensure smooth movement on both axis before tightening down to the frame.
    • Ensure smooth movement on both axis before tightening down to the frame.

  22. Wait until you run your belts before tightening the tensioners. Do not overtighten the M5 bolts. The F695 bearings should spin freely.
    • Wait until you run your belts before tightening the tensioners.

    • Do not overtighten the M5 bolts. The F695 bearings should spin freely.

  23. Study the belt path.
    • Study the belt path.

    • Best practice is to run one belt before cutting. Use this belt to measure the other belt to the exact same length (by tooth count). Leave at least 1 inch (2-3cm) spare on one side so you can tighten by hand easily.

  24. Start at the carriage. Set the belt flush to the edge and tighten the belt retainer.
    • Start at the carriage. Set the belt flush to the edge and tighten the belt retainer.

  25. Run the belts to the X/Y joints. The toothed side should run against the 20t pulleys. The smooth side should run against the flanged bearings.
    • Run the belts to the X/Y joints. The toothed side should run against the 20t pulleys. The smooth side should run against the flanged bearings.

  26. Run one belt to the front idler/tensioner and back to the X/Y joint.
    • Run one belt to the front idler/tensioner and back to the X/Y joint.

  27. Continue running both belts to the rear.
    • Continue running both belts to the rear.

    • One belt will engage the drive pulley.

    • Run both belts across the rear of the frame.

    • Run the other belt through the drive gear on the other corner.

    • Use paper clips or zip ties to help force the belt along the correct path as necessary.

  28. Run the belts down the other side through the X/Y joint and front idler. Run the belts down the other side through the X/Y joint and front idler.
    • Run the belts down the other side through the X/Y joint and front idler.

  29. Finish the run at the carriage.
    • Finish the run at the carriage.

    • Double check that your belts both follow the correct path.

    • Ensure tensioners on both sides are completely loose.

    • If you cut both belts to the exact same length, pull both of them tight and ensure the same length extend beyond the X carriage.

    • Tuck spare belt back into the carriage.

  30. If you opt out of using dampeners, you may need to adjust or rotate the 20t pulley.
    • If you opt out of using dampeners, you may need to adjust or rotate the 20t pulley.

  31. Do not over-tension  the 110mm belt loop.
    • Do not over-tension the 110mm belt loop.

    • Apply loctite to the grub screws.

  32. Double-check your assembly.
    • Double-check your assembly.

  33. Distance shown is from the front of the printer. Use calipers to measure placement.
    • Distance shown is from the front of the printer.

    • Use calipers to measure placement.

  34. Use calipers to measure placement.
    • Use calipers to measure placement.

ArmyAg08

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